Connecting car stereo to computer
Ok ya i have my two subs and my amp from my car stereo, and i was trying to hook them up to my computer. Now first i have an adapter that goes from the speaker port on my computers sound card to RCA which is connected to the amp.
Ok ya i have my two subs and my amp from my car stereo, and i was trying to hook them up to my computer. Now first i have an adapter that goes from the speaker port on my computers sound card to RCA which is connected to the amp. then i have the amp grounded to my computer case and i have 12V from the Power supply running to the amp. (And yes the amp is connected then to the subs fine). The problem im having is IT DONT WORK!!! darn it..... i dotn konw why either. The subs and amp are brand new and i installed everything good in my car by my self and they pounded... but i just took them out of my car to try to get them to work on my computer.. just for fun.. and so far no luck....
any suggestions? is it even possible?
Thanx,
Masterfinn
any suggestions? is it even possible?
Thanx,
Masterfinn
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Do you have the sense hooked up?
Bridge power and remote wires together at the amp. Then remove when you want to disable the amp.
This is assuming its JUST a power supply, that is not connected to a computer as well. You will kill the computers power.
When you grounded it to case, is there any paint or annodized material on it? If so, try removing that and reconnecting so there is a loop.
You may also want to try to see how much current the amp draws in a car, then compare with the power supply specs.
Never heard of anyone doing this.
You are a crazy man, mang
:x
Bridge power and remote wires together at the amp. Then remove when you want to disable the amp.
This is assuming its JUST a power supply, that is not connected to a computer as well. You will kill the computers power.
When you grounded it to case, is there any paint or annodized material on it? If so, try removing that and reconnecting so there is a loop.
You may also want to try to see how much current the amp draws in a car, then compare with the power supply specs.
Never heard of anyone doing this.
You are a crazy man, mang
:x
OK, if it was me, I would try the following:
1. Install the amp and speakers as if it were a normal car audio installation (power, ground, signal connections).
2. Setup the PC to run off of an inverter or custom power supply.
3. Determine if there is a need to turn on the amp remotely, such as what an antenna or amp voltage line on the back of most decent car stereos have. There are a couple of ways to work with this; you can either find the correct voltage and use a manual switch to convey this voltage to the switching line to the amp (to turn it on, just like when a headunit would be turned on), see if there is an adapter that can sense signal voltage on the RCA jacks and turn on the amp (some of these have wireless remotes to control volume as well), or hardwire the amp to turn on all the time by connecting that voltage lead to your ignition line (assuming that it's a 12v line needed, which I can't remember right now).
4. Connect from the line out of the sound card to the RCA jacks on the amp (or the inline adapter if you have one).
It's been a while since I have worked with car audio stuff, and as I am at work I can't see either of my Linear Power amps right now...
1. Install the amp and speakers as if it were a normal car audio installation (power, ground, signal connections).
2. Setup the PC to run off of an inverter or custom power supply.
3. Determine if there is a need to turn on the amp remotely, such as what an antenna or amp voltage line on the back of most decent car stereos have. There are a couple of ways to work with this; you can either find the correct voltage and use a manual switch to convey this voltage to the switching line to the amp (to turn it on, just like when a headunit would be turned on), see if there is an adapter that can sense signal voltage on the RCA jacks and turn on the amp (some of these have wireless remotes to control volume as well), or hardwire the amp to turn on all the time by connecting that voltage lead to your ignition line (assuming that it's a 12v line needed, which I can't remember right now).
4. Connect from the line out of the sound card to the RCA jacks on the amp (or the inline adapter if you have one).
It's been a while since I have worked with car audio stuff, and as I am at work I can't see either of my Linear Power amps right now...
hehehehe
u could also try decaff
j/k
u could also try decaff
j/k
Quote:see if there is an adapter that can sense signal voltage on the RCA jacks and turn on the amp
Wouldnt there be instances where there is no voltage on the line and it would turn of the amp, then say - a windows sound kicks in and it tuns the amp on, then off after its done. That wouldnt be to ideal for the amp, or for the power supply.
Wouldnt there be instances where there is no voltage on the line and it would turn of the amp, then say - a windows sound kicks in and it tuns the amp on, then off after its done. That wouldnt be to ideal for the amp, or for the power supply.
Ya i have a seperate power supply, that is connected to the amp, so its not draing power from my PC. also i checked the gound and it seems to be well in place. also as for the remote, i did connect the remote wire to the power wire and when i turned on the power supply my power light lights up on the amp so i assume that its on. also the power supply supplies 8A on the +12V line, i think this would be enough. would it?
Ya i know you all think im nutz for trying to do this, i just thought id try, its fun tinker'n with stuff.
and just for the record.... i am kinda crazy!!.. hehehe... haha HO HO :x
Masterfinn
Ya i know you all think im nutz for trying to do this, i just thought id try, its fun tinker'n with stuff.
and just for the record.... i am kinda crazy!!.. hehehe... haha HO HO :x
Masterfinn
Quote:Quote:see if there is an adapter that can sense signal voltage on the RCA jacks and turn on the amp
Wouldnt there be instances where there is no voltage on the line and it would turn of the amp, then say - a windows sound kicks in and it tuns the amp on, then off after its done. That wouldnt be to ideal for the amp, or for the power supply.
Probably wouldn't be an issue. The unit that I am speaking of was made a while ago (when many competition headunits still didn't have remote controls for SPL competitions) and they wouldn't just kill the amp immediately after the last signal was passed. There would be a delay before this ever occurred. Then again, I am not sure there has been a need for these in recent years so they may not be available, hence the idea to run the amp switch line off the ignition hot lead.
Now, are you running the amp off of the line out or speaker out? I would definately recommend line out, as speaker out would probably blow out the line level inputs on the amp. If connected to line out, have you tried adjusting the gain on the amp or raising the volume on the PC?
Wouldnt there be instances where there is no voltage on the line and it would turn of the amp, then say - a windows sound kicks in and it tuns the amp on, then off after its done. That wouldnt be to ideal for the amp, or for the power supply.
Probably wouldn't be an issue. The unit that I am speaking of was made a while ago (when many competition headunits still didn't have remote controls for SPL competitions) and they wouldn't just kill the amp immediately after the last signal was passed. There would be a delay before this ever occurred. Then again, I am not sure there has been a need for these in recent years so they may not be available, hence the idea to run the amp switch line off the ignition hot lead.
Now, are you running the amp off of the line out or speaker out? I would definately recommend line out, as speaker out would probably blow out the line level inputs on the amp. If connected to line out, have you tried adjusting the gain on the amp or raising the volume on the PC?
Quote:Now, are you running the amp off of the line out or speaker out? I would definately recommend line out, as speaker out would probably blow out the line level inputs on the amp. If connected to line out, have you tried adjusting the gain on the amp or raising the volume on the PC?
Line out would also be my recommendation. Most likely wont blow anything, but there is a chance. If the sound is distorted turn the input adjust all the way down and go from there.
Quote:they wouldn't just kill the amp immediately after the last signal was passed. There would be a delay before this ever occurred.
Yea I figured it would have to be a one shot thing, until you turn it off, or a delay like you said.
As far as it still not working, I have no idea why not, cause that amperage rating should be fine.
Line out would also be my recommendation. Most likely wont blow anything, but there is a chance. If the sound is distorted turn the input adjust all the way down and go from there.
Quote:they wouldn't just kill the amp immediately after the last signal was passed. There would be a delay before this ever occurred.
Yea I figured it would have to be a one shot thing, until you turn it off, or a delay like you said.
As far as it still not working, I have no idea why not, cause that amperage rating should be fine.
Ok everyone, i have it all work ing now
ALRIGHTY!!!!!!!
i think it was just that i had to have more power to the remote pin. so i hooked it up straight to 12V and bam!! works... the only thing now i wish i had a filter to filter out high end frequencys to i can just have bass comming fromt he subs. i do have two "line outs" on the back of my sound card so ya one will now go to the subs and the other to my regular speakers.. hehe so awesome.. pounds good....... im such a geek....
Thanx, everyone..
peace,
Masterfinn
ALRIGHTY!!!!!!!
i think it was just that i had to have more power to the remote pin. so i hooked it up straight to 12V and bam!! works... the only thing now i wish i had a filter to filter out high end frequencys to i can just have bass comming fromt he subs. i do have two "line outs" on the back of my sound card so ya one will now go to the subs and the other to my regular speakers.. hehe so awesome.. pounds good....... im such a geek....
Thanx, everyone..
peace,
Masterfinn
well i would be lying if i said the thought never crossed my mind
Quote: think it was just that i had to have more power to the remote pin. so i hooked it up straight to 12V and bam!!
Hah - told you.
You may want to pop down to the school and grab a coil (aka big inductor) to filter out high end - or you can use an op-amp to filter the shat out.
Hah - told you.
You may want to pop down to the school and grab a coil (aka big inductor) to filter out high end - or you can use an op-amp to filter the shat out.
Quote:Quote: think it was just that i had to have more power to the remote pin. so i hooked it up straight to 12V and bam!!
Hah - told you.
Ditto. Did you run it to the ignition switched power so it will turn off with the car (or at least have a switch/relay for it)? The op-amp (active crossover) idea would be much nicer. I mean hell, you *do* have a PC in there afterall...
Hah - told you.
Ditto. Did you run it to the ignition switched power so it will turn off with the car (or at least have a switch/relay for it)? The op-amp (active crossover) idea would be much nicer. I mean hell, you *do* have a PC in there afterall...
Ye - the op-amp idea is ideal - jsut make sure to put it in the line out, before the amp, and if you get a coil, after the amp.
With the coil you loose much power, with the op-amp you can add 'some' gain or attenuate as you see fit.
But you knew that
With the coil you loose much power, with the op-amp you can add 'some' gain or attenuate as you see fit.
But you knew that
