The: What Computer Part did you buy this week thread
NETWORK Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink USB Bridge Model PL9710-USB Retail $135 Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink Ethernet Bridge Model PL9610-Ethernet Retail $135 KEYBOARD MICROSOFT OFFICE KEYBOARD USB & PS/2 VER.
NETWORK
Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink USB Bridge Model PL9710-USB Retail $135
Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink Ethernet Bridge Model PL9610-Ethernet Retail $135
KEYBOARD
MICROSOFT OFFICE KEYBOARD USB & PS/2 VER. 1.0A - OEM $26
SPEAKERS
Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 THX Certified 6 piece Personal Audio System $368
CDR
2x Lite On 48x12x48 CDRW Model LTR-48125W Retail $93
Just bought these off of newegg. Gonna be waiting for me as soon as I get back!
Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink USB Bridge Model PL9710-USB Retail $135
Asoka POWERLINE Homeplug Pluglink Ethernet Bridge Model PL9610-Ethernet Retail $135
KEYBOARD
MICROSOFT OFFICE KEYBOARD USB & PS/2 VER. 1.0A - OEM $26
SPEAKERS
Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 THX Certified 6 piece Personal Audio System $368
CDR
2x Lite On 48x12x48 CDRW Model LTR-48125W Retail $93
Just bought these off of newegg. Gonna be waiting for me as soon as I get back!
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I got the Philips Dynamic Edge last week.
woo hoo!
water cooling parts arrived - now waiting on my RAD and some water wetter and i am offffffff!
some pics (around 100 kb each)
Yes the North bridge is exposed the hook that holds the heatsink snapped - so got to solder it back on and make a bracket to hold the NB water block on
CPU and thermale take active cooler on the ram.
Vid Card
both with a hose
water cooling parts arrived - now waiting on my RAD and some water wetter and i am offffffff!
some pics (around 100 kb each)
Yes the North bridge is exposed the hook that holds the heatsink snapped - so got to solder it back on and make a bracket to hold the NB water block on
CPU and thermale take active cooler on the ram.
Vid Card
both with a hose
Since yesterday was payday and I had to get something, I decided to get an interim graphics card until Doom III/Half-Life 2 come out
I purchased an A-bit Siluro FX 5600 DT 256MB card. It's not the fastest nor the slowest card on the block but it's supports AGP 8x on my Canterwood board 8)
BTW, I work for a local Aopen Distributor on the left coast and have been testing an engineering sample of their latest Canterwood motherboard, the AX4C Max II. This is a really nice board, it does correct the issues that the initial board had, which were corrected via BIOS updates, but the only thing I'm gonna let Aopen America know about is the space between the P4 CPU socket and the DIMM's sockets. They re-arranged the CPU socket so it's a bit closer to them now and my Zalman copper flower bloom actually touches the module in DIMM slot 1. Since I have heat spreaders on the modules there's no real problem but it's pretty darn close
I purchased an A-bit Siluro FX 5600 DT 256MB card. It's not the fastest nor the slowest card on the block but it's supports AGP 8x on my Canterwood board 8)
BTW, I work for a local Aopen Distributor on the left coast and have been testing an engineering sample of their latest Canterwood motherboard, the AX4C Max II. This is a really nice board, it does correct the issues that the initial board had, which were corrected via BIOS updates, but the only thing I'm gonna let Aopen America know about is the space between the P4 CPU socket and the DIMM's sockets. They re-arranged the CPU socket so it's a bit closer to them now and my Zalman copper flower bloom actually touches the module in DIMM slot 1. Since I have heat spreaders on the modules there's no real problem but it's pretty darn close
^^^^
the ti4600 has been beting the 5600 - u could of gotten a better temp card
but anyways
yeah Alec - the rad i orderd it is supposed to be 2-3 day delivery worldwide but 1-5 days to ship!
i want it darn it
and the fans in my case i am keeping
i got 3 x 80mm on the back - 2x 80mm on the front and one on the side panel blowing in around about the vid card and cpu.
now i am trying to get my design for a custom ram cooling for the g4 using fans instread of water - should be interesting - now, if i cna remeber how to use AutoCAD. will save me some time tring to do it in Photoshop.
I would say Alec, on your new rig - try out water cooling - even if it is just on your vid card or just your cpu - they are SO easy to set up! - i was kind of worried @ first, but it is so simple!
P.S - u best be getting us some pics of that car once it is all done up! heck drive down to Costa Rica to show me
the ti4600 has been beting the 5600 - u could of gotten a better temp card
but anyways
yeah Alec - the rad i orderd it is supposed to be 2-3 day delivery worldwide but 1-5 days to ship!
i want it darn it
and the fans in my case i am keeping
i got 3 x 80mm on the back - 2x 80mm on the front and one on the side panel blowing in around about the vid card and cpu.
now i am trying to get my design for a custom ram cooling for the g4 using fans instread of water - should be interesting - now, if i cna remeber how to use AutoCAD. will save me some time tring to do it in Photoshop.
I would say Alec, on your new rig - try out water cooling - even if it is just on your vid card or just your cpu - they are SO easy to set up! - i was kind of worried @ first, but it is so simple!
P.S - u best be getting us some pics of that car once it is all done up! heck drive down to Costa Rica to show me
lol
hate when u got to wait - u want somehting now, but u know u should wait - iam bad for that, but better now!
hate when u got to wait - u want somehting now, but u know u should wait - iam bad for that, but better now!
Quote:
64-bit? I don't need it... who does? Databases & large scale multimedia application is the only REAL use for it I can see, & I don't do that at home... who does?
APk
I don't know when it will happen, but what would be interesting is if game coders could find a way to use the extra CPU registers in 32-bit mode. I remember back in the day that there were a few enterprising coders for the C128 that was able to hack into the second CPU, this was a faster Z80, for extra things run in the background. Wish I could remember the apps, but there were very few of them for sure
Perhaps there will be something akin to HT on the Athlon64's, who knows
64-bit? I don't need it... who does? Databases & large scale multimedia application is the only REAL use for it I can see, & I don't do that at home... who does?
APk
I don't know when it will happen, but what would be interesting is if game coders could find a way to use the extra CPU registers in 32-bit mode. I remember back in the day that there were a few enterprising coders for the C128 that was able to hack into the second CPU, this was a faster Z80, for extra things run in the background. Wish I could remember the apps, but there were very few of them for sure
Perhaps there will be something akin to HT on the Athlon64's, who knows
New game rig (replaced celeron 1,3 geforceMX).
ASUS P4P800
Celeron 2,4
2x 512MB transcend PC2700
80GB 6Y080L0
Radeon 9600 128MB
I Overclocked the celeron to 3,2 just to notice that the side wall of my case that the mobo is screwed on to is getting quite warm (running on stock cooling) The CPU temp is 40°C (47 on load) and the MB temp is 43°C?
Gotta get and active cooled northbridge.
Faster than a P4 3,06 according to sandra
It's still good for 9663 3dmarks, but still gotta optimize the ram/chipset timing. Sure to go around the magic 10000.
P.S. definetly need more cooling. 8)
ASUS P4P800
Celeron 2,4
2x 512MB transcend PC2700
80GB 6Y080L0
Radeon 9600 128MB
I Overclocked the celeron to 3,2 just to notice that the side wall of my case that the mobo is screwed on to is getting quite warm (running on stock cooling) The CPU temp is 40°C (47 on load) and the MB temp is 43°C?
Gotta get and active cooled northbridge.
Faster than a P4 3,06 according to sandra
It's still good for 9663 3dmarks, but still gotta optimize the ram/chipset timing. Sure to go around the magic 10000.
P.S. definetly need more cooling. 8)
nice nice
well really a celeron it may haev the faster Ghz speed but it is limited in what can go through it i beleive was said it another thread.
if it is only @ 40c u got no worries, once it hits 60, then worry.
well really a celeron it may haev the faster Ghz speed but it is limited in what can go through it i beleive was said it another thread.
if it is only @ 40c u got no worries, once it hits 60, then worry.
After running seti@home for 3 units in a row:
stock @2,4GHz the board has 45°C and the CPU 48°C
OCed @3,2GHz the board has 49°C and the CPU 47°C
I've added an extra fan to suck the hot air out at the back.
The side of the case still gets kinda warm. I'ts a nice feature in the winter, but now we have 30+°C here.
The second thing that wories me is that the air that comes out of the PSU is much warmer than the one that is sucked out of the case.
I took an ambient thermometer to measure the temp. The air that comes out of the case has 35°C the air that comes out of the PSU has 41°C
The air that comes out of my old Celeron's 1,3 PSU has 32°C
The ambient temp in my room is 30°C and the outside temp is 26°C. The 4 °C have been generated by my new computer over the night (at stock speed).
Gonna OC the bastard cos I like sauna
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
stock @2,4GHz the board has 45°C and the CPU 48°C
OCed @3,2GHz the board has 49°C and the CPU 47°C
I've added an extra fan to suck the hot air out at the back.
The side of the case still gets kinda warm. I'ts a nice feature in the winter, but now we have 30+°C here.
The second thing that wories me is that the air that comes out of the PSU is much warmer than the one that is sucked out of the case.
I took an ambient thermometer to measure the temp. The air that comes out of the case has 35°C the air that comes out of the PSU has 41°C
The air that comes out of my old Celeron's 1,3 PSU has 32°C
The ambient temp in my room is 30°C and the outside temp is 26°C. The 4 °C have been generated by my new computer over the night (at stock speed).
Gonna OC the bastard cos I like sauna
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
Quote:
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
This is why I prefer to build my own boxes, I can do whatever the hell I want to do with them I provide my own warranty so I also have to eat anything that I destroy as well
As for the rise in temp from the PSU, it's because of the OC'ing. This causes more power consumption hence more heat from the PSU
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
This is why I prefer to build my own boxes, I can do whatever the hell I want to do with them I provide my own warranty so I also have to eat anything that I destroy as well
As for the rise in temp from the PSU, it's because of the OC'ing. This causes more power consumption hence more heat from the PSU
But I'm running not overclocked now and PSU temps are almost the same. Maybe a cheap 250W PSU just labeled as 300W.
I ordered the components to build my own box, I too hate those prebuilt stuff. But I got the case and a LG 52x burner for almost the same price as all the other components alone. I asked if I still had 1 year component waranty if I open the case and they said it will void all waranty.
I probably won't be able to keep my hands from opening the box after a month or two.
But if something fails it'll be expensive
I ordered the components to build my own box, I too hate those prebuilt stuff. But I got the case and a LG 52x burner for almost the same price as all the other components alone. I asked if I still had 1 year component waranty if I open the case and they said it will void all waranty.
I probably won't be able to keep my hands from opening the box after a month or two.
But if something fails it'll be expensive
Quote:
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
Who did you get this system from?
that is SUCH BS if you open your case it will void the warrenty - so if u want a rma upgrade you have to send your WHOLE case to the shop
that is BS
Who did this syetm for you, PLEASE let me know
did they put sticks on the joints to say if it is broken the warrenty is void?
let me know full details, sure there is a way around it
P.S have u been over to
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/index.php?s=
may want tro check it our if your getting into O/C'n alot.
I would install better cooling, but I can't open the case cos it'll void my 2year waranty. It was enough pain to install a secod fan through the psu opening. It's like fixing your car's engine through the exhaust.
Who did you get this system from?
that is SUCH BS if you open your case it will void the warrenty - so if u want a rma upgrade you have to send your WHOLE case to the shop
that is BS
Who did this syetm for you, PLEASE let me know
did they put sticks on the joints to say if it is broken the warrenty is void?
let me know full details, sure there is a way around it
P.S have u been over to
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/index.php?s=
may want tro check it our if your getting into O/C'n alot.
Quote:But I'm running not overclocked now and PSU temps are almost the same. Maybe a cheap 250W PSU just labeled as 300W.
I ordered the components to build my own box, I too hate those prebuilt stuff. But I got the case and a LG 52x burner for almost the same price as all the other components alone. I asked if I still had 1 year component waranty if I open the case and they said it will void all waranty.
I probably won't be able to keep my hands from opening the box after a month or two.
But if something fails it'll be expensive
Building your own is better, you stil usually get a 1 year warrenty @ min. on all parts you buy, - unless it is OEM packaging.
The PSU - what you need to look @ is the 3.3 + 5v output - that is what matters, not the 250w or the 300w.
if it is not on your PSU - but u cant tell cause u cant open your case - but if anything search the web for your PSU to see what the specs are.
I ordered the components to build my own box, I too hate those prebuilt stuff. But I got the case and a LG 52x burner for almost the same price as all the other components alone. I asked if I still had 1 year component waranty if I open the case and they said it will void all waranty.
I probably won't be able to keep my hands from opening the box after a month or two.
But if something fails it'll be expensive
Building your own is better, you stil usually get a 1 year warrenty @ min. on all parts you buy, - unless it is OEM packaging.
The PSU - what you need to look @ is the 3.3 + 5v output - that is what matters, not the 250w or the 300w.
if it is not on your PSU - but u cant tell cause u cant open your case - but if anything search the web for your PSU to see what the specs are.
Quote:
Who did you get this system from?
that is SUCH BS if you open your case it will void the warrenty - so if u want a rma upgrade you have to send your WHOLE case to the shop
that is BS
Who did this syetm for you, PLEASE let me know
did they put sticks on the joints to say if it is broken the warrenty is void?
let me know full details, sure there is a way around it
P.S have u been over to
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/index.php?s=
may want tro check it our if your getting into O/C'n alot.
It's one of the biggest computer shops in our country called ComTron.
Yes they put stickers on the joints
If I want to change anything I have to take it tho them and they charge for it.
They said that they don't want anyone to add any components that would damage the computer ... Yeah BS
I'll tear of the sticker sooner or later anyway, but it still sucks.
Who did you get this system from?
that is SUCH BS if you open your case it will void the warrenty - so if u want a rma upgrade you have to send your WHOLE case to the shop
that is BS
Who did this syetm for you, PLEASE let me know
did they put sticks on the joints to say if it is broken the warrenty is void?
let me know full details, sure there is a way around it
P.S have u been over to
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/index.php?s=
may want tro check it our if your getting into O/C'n alot.
It's one of the biggest computer shops in our country called ComTron.
Yes they put stickers on the joints
If I want to change anything I have to take it tho them and they charge for it.
They said that they don't want anyone to add any components that would damage the computer ... Yeah BS
I'll tear of the sticker sooner or later anyway, but it still sucks.
lol
that ius such BS - just a way to screw the person over for more money
steam off the stickers, do what u want - u have to take it back, steam off the stickers again, take out whatever and glue them back on
that ius such BS - just a way to screw the person over for more money
steam off the stickers, do what u want - u have to take it back, steam off the stickers again, take out whatever and glue them back on
Going to the dark side of cooling. Ordered a Swiftech MCW5000A waterblock, Hydor L20 pump, 20ft (better safe than sorry) of 3/8" ID/1/2" OD Tygon tubing, and currently have a car heater core for my radiator. I need to pick up a T fitting here as well.
Quote:Going to the dark side of cooling. Ordered a Swiftech MCW5000A waterblock, Hydor L20 pump, 20ft (better safe than sorry) of 3/8" ID/1/2" OD Tygon tubing, and currently have a car heater core for my radiator. I need to pick up a T fitting here as well.
What are you using the T fitting for, this will serious slow down your water flow...if u use it to seprate to cool 2 water blocks.,
as for the Hydor L20 pump - i got one myself anf frankly i think it is kind of crap..lol so i am gettin ght eheim now.
the l20 i will use for just my video card and uyse the ehiem for my cpu and north bridge.
What are you using the T fitting for, this will serious slow down your water flow...if u use it to seprate to cool 2 water blocks.,
as for the Hydor L20 pump - i got one myself anf frankly i think it is kind of crap..lol so i am gettin ght eheim now.
the l20 i will use for just my video card and uyse the ehiem for my cpu and north bridge.
I'm not using a resevoir, and am using a T fitting to provide a way to add water. I'm currently just using a single CPU waterblock in the system.
